Memories of Bhutan -the people, the king-

To talk about the people in Bhutan, I must start with the King.
First of all, they love the king. They think the king brings all the happiness, peace, and the better life and worship him in a good way. And as a result, this country is maintained quite well by the king and the belief by the people.

The successive kings of Bhutan.
The current king on the right edge, is King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck. All the kings are "Jigme" and "Wangchuck", so when people explained to me about the current king, they said Namgyel.
My vague image of Bhutan which is probably the same as the one for most of us in Japan, was "the country with happiness". This idea is kinda right and kinda wrong. The king (Singye, the father of the current king) did say "we must measure our life not by the economic growth(Gross Domestic Product), but the happiness(Gross Narional Happiness)". I don't mean to criticize against this speech, but that doesn't mean they are happy. It was a suggestion which other countries should learn from. Anyhow, I respect his foward-thinking and revolutionary speech and it seems Bhutanese people, especially the goverment servants, are very proud of it and my friend game me the very think book about the king's speech (right I should read it someday).

Singye resigned very early as a normal reign period. They told me a lot of people cried over it. Namgyel is very very popular but his father, Singye was popular and he still is.
For the record, Bhutanese men are allowed to have several wives (as long as he can love them equally according to them!). And Singye have 4 official empresses.

And Bhutanese royal family are quite close and have good relationship with Thai royalty. I could tell the faithfulness for king is very similar between Bhutan and Thailand after visiting those countries.

Starting from the right, the former king of Bhutan Singye, the current king Namgyel, and the king  of Thailand, Rama VIII. @ some Thai restaurant in Thimpu, the capital.

Memories of Bhutan -dress code-

As Bhutan became popular in Japan especially this year (other than the king and princes visited Japan, can anyone tell me what made Bhutan so popular here? just out of curiosity), I'm so glad that I was able to visit there which is apparently rare to do. I even had a chance to wear Bhutanese traditional clothes for women, called Kira. When I walked around the town with normal casual clothes taking pictures with my IPod, people kind of stared at me but once I wore Kira, I totally looked like a Bhutanese girl and no one ever notice that I'm from Japan. They all first talked to me in Dzongkha, but after I kept silent and nodding, they ask my friend if I'm okay or sick. My friend and I had some fun tricking people and see their expressions. haha

Men wear robe tied with a belt, called Gho. Pretty much 95% of Bhutanese men I saw wore Gho but I heard it's not necessary but it is for public officers like my friends. I like how they are colorful and have different taste. But for shoes, I guess people stopped wearing the traditional one and now they wear black leather shoes with knee-high socks, I find it cute...reminded me of Scottish clothes.

There is an additional rule for dress code when you enter a dzong (used as city hall), or a temple. Men has to wear white sash from left shoulder to opposite hip, and women wear narrow cloth on the left shoulder, called Rachu.

Since all of my friends are guys, they didn't have Rachu, which is necessary for me to enter any dzong or temples. I understood that how serious they take about this dress code so first I told I would wait in front of the building, but they ask some lady around the temple to let me use hers for me. By borrowing Rachu many times by many girls, I got to visit many dzong and temples. People in Bhutan are shy but really nice. I could feel pro-Japanese mind everywhere in Bhutan.

What I learned:
- That I perfectly blend in with Bhutanese community in appearance!

What made me happy:
- Despite of this limited foreigners entrance, people here are very nice and warm. Just a little bit shy. :)

2012

It was the most non-special new year's eve I've ever had in my life, so as new year's day.

Yet I feel like I should start something new so writing blog could be the one I can do, which apparently I was influenced by the character from the TV show I've been watching...Carrie Bradshaw!

First thing I should do would be writing about my travel last year which I've been procrastinating a lot. It feels so sad just to know it's already "last year", but if I don't start now time will just pass more, which means I'm gonna forget more...(how sad) plus this work life will just accelerate the distance between the good times and now. So glad that I was able to travel last year after realizing I don't even have the nerve to ask for a day off!

Let's see how often I can update this blog this year...

Wish 2012 will be peaceful for all of us, and for the earth.

Last journaling from Bangkok, Thailand

December 21
Got to the airport last night and spent whole night sleeping next to the check-in gate...was freezing!!!
And it made me mad actually...cuz once you open the door you feel hot and humid right away!
There's only one airline in Bhutan, Drukair and though I had to wait for like 7 hours to check-in but when I found the sign on the boarding board I was happy.

The flight stopped by at Dhaka so I technically landed on Bangladesh. The place was quite small and the food was...hmm. Japanese girl with her mother are sitting next to me and they told me they were here to see their husband/dad volunteering in Bhutan.

Getting visa to go to Bhutan is hard and expensive. Thanks to my friend (I don't know if I can call him "friend" cuz he was one of the delegates from Bhutan at CBD-COP10), he invited me as his personal guest and I didn't have to do all the process to get my visa. Even for the flight ticket they put different price on foreigners so he got my ticket for me with discount. I guess is Bhutanese government's policy that they restrict the number of the tourists and foreigners in Bhutan...to preserve its culture I think? Anyway so relieved I got to Paro, the only one airport in Bhutan safely and passed the immigration gate!

My first meal in Bhutan...they put lots of chili peppers and my tongue got burnt.

Smoking is prohibited in Bhutan. So this bitter nut called Doma is like its replacement. 
You put doma with pasted chalk and wrap them with this leaf. I tried but I couldn't even chew and it was...disgusting in my mouth. For me it almost the same as those drugs and they said it's important for them cuz it keeps your body warm. The most disgusting part is that they throw up doma after chewing for while  and it just looks like blood.

 It's already so much interesting being in Bhutan....

December 22
If you are in Bhutan you always have to go anywhere with your guide and a car. Otherwise you get lost or stuck in middle of nowhere cuz sometime you need a permission to pass gates. I was with this guide and driver whole day and they showed me around pretty much everywhere in Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan.

Pandu and Karma (not sure if I write their name correct). They look like Japanese aren't they?

Bhutanese guys playing Khuru, short and handy version of archery I think.

Journaling from Khao San

December 16
I signed up for a tour to go to Angkor Wat. Today I spent a whole day going to Siem Reap, a city near Angkor Wat.

This is a boarder between Thailand and Cambodia, but this is like a mutual area and I had to get off the bus and walk for like 400 meter to go to the Cambodian immigration gate with my huge backpack...there are some casinos in this area.
Almost 12 hours drive to Siam Reap. I wouldn't recommend anyone coming to see Angkor Wat if you can afford flying!

Morning market in Cambodia.


What I learned:
- There was a clear different between Thai bus travel service and Cambodians. Thai beated Cambodia big times = I'm not gonna take any Cambodian bus tour....it sucked.

What made me happy:
- price in Cambodia. Super cheap.

December 17th
FINALLY I got to Angkor Wat!
I had a great tour guide Tak who speak Japanese fluently and really enjoyed there.
No need to explain. Just pictures tell everything!

It was just amazing.


December 18th
I did exactly what I did on 16th. Riding a bus for 12 felt nothing anymore haha

December 19th
My relative has lived in Bangkok for 3 years for his business and I met up with him at Siam, a big shopping area in Bangkok.
It was actually my first time meeting him but he was really nice and took care of me very well.
I had fish spa for the first time (thought fish was supposed to be smaller than this...it hurt a little actuallly!)!

And then for dinner we had Thai sukiyaki, at Coca. He ordered in Thai and we had a really good dinner!
Thank you so much Nobuyuki san!!


December20th
I was sick of staying a place with bed bugs so last night I stayed some nice hostel (900 baht I consider it gorgeous).  I stayed there right before they kicked me out and walked around Khao San a bit. Finally it's time to sightsee around the area.

I went to Wat Pho and saw the reclining Buddha.

Journaling from Bhutan 2

December 14th
Last day in Chiang Mai...

Pui had been a great host to me. I met her on a day before the last day of CBD COP10 through my friend Nancy. I still can't believe she offered me to stay at her place at first time I saw her. She did say her friends were surprised at that but she also said she and her husband always welcome anybody who wish to visit Chiang Mai. I'm so glad that I met her. She is definitely my Thail mama and I got her permission!

After I left her place I went to a market she told me. I had pretty good fried rice there which was only 25 baht. I stopped by this christmasy store (which was pretty rare there) and met this little boy "Yamato". He is half Thai half Japanese, his grandpa explained to me with his broken English. I don't know if Yamato understood Japanese but I played with him for a while talking to him in Japanese. He's cute. Staying there for a while made me feel bad leaving there without buying anything at the store but of course I didn't wanna buy any ornaments for Christmas tree...I ended up buying this red Santa hat with some lights on it....haha what an unnecessary expenditure and good job Yamato!

I took a night train to Bankok leaving at 4:30pm(830 Baht). It was much more comfortable than on the way to Chiang Mai because I had this little room with clean sheets, completely private with a window view. Plus because of this blue curtain it wasn't that cold! I could sleep much longer...if I ever take train in Thailand I'd definitely take second class night train!

What I learned:
- I think I didn't have to buy anything at the Christmas goods store...when am I gonna use this hat anyway?

What made me happy:
- Pui's kindness, hospitality, and warmth.


December 15th
I got to Bangkok 7 in the morning. Hot and humid especially with this heavy backpack...
I bargained with this tuk tuk guy to go to Khaosan and made it 80 baht. I didn't really care cuz I just wanted to put my backpack down and sitttt.
It was pretty thrilling having not knowing where I'm gonna stay on that day but it was exciting as well. On the way a weird Thai guy talked to me saying he's from TAT (official Thai tourist office something I think...) and I can stay this place for free! No way, too obvious.

THE Khao San Road, where backpackers come from all over the world and you see more Caucasians than Thai people (seriously).Walking around Khaosan was pretty fun. Good thing I had guidebook of Thailand. I wouldn't be able to walk around properly without it. Then finally I found this guest house runned by Japnese(maybe) and met many backpackers from Japan. They are like experts for me so I asked them so many questions, so many stories, so many things they have done so far. They were saying that Japanese you meet here are the one you will never meet in Japan...I totally agree.
At a travel agancy on Khaosan I signed up for a tour to go to Angkor Wat! wat wat wat! woo!

What I learned:
- There are actually many Japanese backpackers and listening to their stories is so much fun. Wish I could meet them again somewhere beside Japan!

What made me happy:
- Finally coming to Khao San made me realized that I'm backpacking.

Journaling from Bhutan

December 12 
Pui took me to Nimman Haemin, like Harajuku in Chian Mai.

This is a Burmese food cart. It's cheaper to eat out here.

Guess how much is this...
25 baht (70 yen) and it was pretty good!
After I left there I went up to the mountain to visit Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep, means holy temple on mountain. So many tourists and Thai who came to pray (I managed to cut off all of them in this picture).

 To be honest, I was kind of tired of temples so I didn't really stay there that long plus I really wanted to go get massages <3 Too bad it was getting massaged so there's no picture of my first Thai massage experience :( but to be honest again it was painful especially shoulders.
I met up with Pui again to go to a famous night market in the old town in Chiang Mai. It's now mostly for tourists and super crowded there but it's worth going. It's a good place to practice bargaining as well!

As you can see, SO many Caucasians in Thailand...some are for vacation, some for work, some are here to have fun with Thai girls...

They even have a booth at the night market!!!!
I know I don't have to say, but caucasians I saw here are mostly fat, old, and pretty ugly. I guess they are here cuz they realize that.

OMG the funniest purse ever! I wonder where they got these sentences...
Japanese stuff is pretty popular here so I guess if you put some Japanese people consider is "cool".

What I learned:
- Even young people here are pretty religious. They come to Wats to pray.
- Fat, old, ugly white guys are everywhere. No offense but looking at them with young Thai girls holding hands are pretty gross for me.

What made me happy:
- Although it was painful, I could get Thai massage for the first time!


December 13
 No need to say anything. JUST LOVED IT.

After this happiest moment (yes I was allowed to ped them only 10 min...) I went to a big shopping mall. then I found these!

They were pretty busy. Price was a little cheaper than Japan I think.

Pui's friend invited me for dinner and I had this authentic Northern Thai food. She knew I couldn't eat spicy food so she told me what I should eat, what I shouldn't.

What I learned:
- Wealth gap ( I don't know how to call it) is pretty big in Thailand. means price changes a lot depends on where you buy stuff.

What made me happy:
- The baby tigers!!!!!!!!!!!!